What to measure, what to photograph and what to tell us, so the fence we draw is the fence your site actually needs.
Because every fence is made to order, what you send us decides what we draw. This is what is worth capturing. None of it needs to be surveyor accurate, and a photo covers most of it.
Measure along the ground where the fence will stand, not along the property boundary on a title diagram, which is often not the same line. Break it into straight sections and note where it turns.
A tape is ideal. Pacing it out is fine for a first quote.
This is the one people leave out, and it changes everything. Note:
A fall along the run is not a problem. It is a decision: rake the top to follow the ground, or step it. Both look deliberate when they are drawn that way and neither looks deliberate when it is improvised on site.
For every gate, note the clear opening width you want, and whether it should swing or slide. For a driveway gate, say whether it is going to be automated, and which motor if you already know, so we build it to suit the gear.
If it is a pool gate, say so. That changes the height, the hardware and which way it swings.
Piers, letterboxes, meter boxes, retaining walls, downpipes, tap points, street trees, the crossover. Anything the fence has to meet, avoid or return into.
For a pool barrier, also note anything within 900 mm of where the fence will run, because climbable objects are a compliance issue rather than an aesthetic one.
Four photos will usually tell us more than a page of measurements:
Include something for scale if you can. A door, a wheelie bin, a car.
Send it through with a rough height and a colour if you have one in mind. We come back with a drawn elevation of your run and pricing against it.
If something is missing we will ask. It is a short conversation, and it is far cheaper than discovering the fall halfway through installing.
